The clacking of the donkey's feet on the path startles me from my daydream. It's been so quiet. Even here on a coastal path, with the wind finally settled, all I was hearing - if I really tried - was the stillness. But now there's this bloody donkey.
Subscribe now for unlimited access.
$0/
(min cost $0)
or signup to continue reading
I shouldn't begrudge the poor animal. Here on the Greek island of Hydra, it's one of the few ways that people can get around. (In fact, I should probably feel sorry for it because, traditional as it may be, it's not the most humane option available.) It's just that I had got so used to not sharing this path, no traffic at all, not even the four-legged variety.
It's one of the selling points of Hydra - car and motorbike-free in a country where you're rarely far from traffic. It's often pitched as a novelty, a unique selling point to differentiate it from the other Greek islands. But after a couple of days exploring Hydra by foot, I am convinced it's more than just marketing spin. The relative silence creates a calmness that lulls you in. And, with most people getting around by foot, the pace of life slows down, stress dissipating as you realise the beautiful clock tower in the centre of the main town might as well be purely ornamental - nobody cares what time you do anything.
Last year I wrote about a trip where I cruised between some of the most famous islands of the Aegean Sea, like Santorini, Mykonos, Rhodes, and Crete. This year I'm instead hopping between the smaller Saronic Islands in the waters just to the west of Athens - the closest just a 30-minute ferry ride from the main port of Piraeus.
Those larger and more famous islands can often also feel glitzier, the constant tread of tourists polishing away the rough edges until it's just the shiny surface the foreign visitors expect. Here on the Saronic Islands, on the other hand, the daily life of the residents has more of an influence on the local communities. Tourism is still very important, but it's much more likely to be Athenians popping over to escape the city for a weekend, or international visitors coming onshore for day trips from the capital.
Technically there are about 20 islands in the group, but only about half a dozen are worth considering for an easy visit. Any of these deserve at least a couple of nights if you have time. On this trip, I spend a week hopping between four of them so I can get a taste of their differences.
Furthest away is Spetses, about three hours on the ferry from Athens. Its reputation as the trendiest of the Saronic Islands is perhaps lost on me (they all seem pretty glamorous) but the large Poseidonion Grand Hotel across from the ferry wharf, with Ionic columns and turn-of-the-century grandeur, is a nod to the A-listers who have come here for decades.
In the peak of summer, Spetses has a vibrant nightlife, but it's contained to small restaurants and bars along narrow coastal paths opposite a line of moored yachts. Most of the island is much quieter, and I spend an afternoon walking through inland pine forests, before popping down to secluded beaches with pristine water.
The island of Poros, on the other hand, has a much larger town centre, covering an undulating hill with orange tiled roofs. Its size is partly because of its accessibility - just 200 metres off the mainland and with a regular car ferry. But away from this pocket of neoclassical architecture, full of tavernas looking out over the wide promenade, is an island of surprisingly quiet nature.
Most of Poros is relatively mountainous, covered in vegetation, with hiking trails crossing between the beautiful beaches, past casual cocktail bars, and even up to the scant remains of a temple from the 6th century BC.
On Aegina, the largest and the closest to Athens of the main Saronic Islands, the primary archaeological site is more than just a pile of stones. The Temple of Aphaia, high on the top of a hill, has about half of its Doric columns still standing and, on a clear day, you can see the Acropolis from here.
Although Aegina has more landmarks than the other islands (including some spectacular monasteries) it can actually feel more local, almost as though it's just another suburb of Athens - albeit with more beaches and prettier scenery. The main town is busy and full of shops (many selling the famous local produce: pistachios) but it's also easy to find a quiet restaurant on the sand somewhere along the coast.
During my week on the Saronic Islands, I fall for each of them in their own way. Compared to Santorini or Mykonos, I love their convenience and the way I can just jump on a ferry when I'm ready to go. I love that they're generally small enough to explore the variety of experiences on offer. And I love that even on the islands that allow cars, there's minimal traffic and life seems to slow down a few beats.
On idyllic Hydra in particular (my favourite, if I am forced to choose), things are so relaxed that I forget to check the time and almost miss my ferry off the island. It's probably the one occasion when the town's clock tower would be useful... not that spending a bit longer here would be a bad thing.
You can see more things to do in Hydra on Michael's Time Travel Turtle website.